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Researched and Compiled by William J. Dorgan III

The O'Briens of Ireland

THE SOUTHERN SHORE OF NEWFOUNDLAND

 

The area known as the Southern Shore does not have definite boundaries, but it roughly encompasses the east coast of the Avalon Peninsula from Bay Bulls in the north to Cape Race in the south. It corresponds more or less to an historic distinct known as Ferryland, on the Avalon Peninsula.

The Southern Shore is known for its scenic coastline with its many good harbors and deep fjords. The land rises sharply anywhere from 90 to 150 metres high. Rocky barrens crisscross with innumerable ponds, rock outcroppings and bogs. The greater part of the region is underlain by very ancient sedimentary rock known as Pre-Cambrian. In winter, the Southern Shore is one of the warmer parts of Newfoundland. But in the summer, the moderating influences of the Labrador current and its associated fogs keep temperatures within the cool range and delay the onset of the growing season. The area is also one of the wettest in the province with 1400 mm distributed throughout the year.

Communities found on the Southern Shore have always been fishing settlements. These include Bay Bulls, Witless Bay, Mobile,, Tors Cove, Burnt Cove, St. Michael's, Bauline East, La Manche (abandoned), Brigus South, Cape Broyle, Calvert (formerly Capelin Bay), Ferryland, Aquaforte, Fermuse, Renews, Port Kirwin, Kingman's Cove, Cappahayden, Cape Race, Trepassey.

The fishing communities of the Southern Shore are among the oldest in Newfoundland and indeed in North America. Rooted in the transatlantic migratory cod fishery dating from the turn of the 16th century, the place-names themselves suggest that Portuguese fishermen were the first to use the coast. Then came the French, Basques and English. Towards the end of the 16th century the English acquired the entire shore, established shore stations and began seasonal fisheries. These shore stations differed considerably in size; by 1677 their summer populations ranged anywhere from a few to as many as 500 men. More importantly they formed the nucleus of the permanent year-round settlements that slowly evolved. Permanent settlement began with the West Country English, but by the early 1760's, Irish settlers were the dominant force.

"The Oxford Companion to Irish History," ed. S. J. CONNOLLY states: Fishermen from the SE of Ireland began to travel regularly to the rich fishing grounds off Newfoundland from the second half of the 17th century. In the first decades of the 19th century the long-standing connections established by seasonal and temporary migration provided the basis for a wave of permanent emigration. An estimated 30-35 thousand people, drawn overwhelmingly from Waterford and its hinterland, settled in Newfoundland 1800-30, giving its popular culture and spoken English a distinctive flavour. Perhaps Waterford is the origin of the Newfoundland Briens.

Early in the 1800s the population of Newfoundland almost quadrupled. In the three decades between 1803 and 1836, the population grew from 19,000 to 75,000 persons. During that period there were two major waves of
migration, each overwhelmingly Irish, between 1811 and 1816 and again between 1825 and 1833. Perhaps our Briens came over in one of these two major waves.

Professor John Mannion of Memorial University, Newfoundland, has calculated that over 75% of all Irish migration to Newfoundland came from the South East of Ireland. Most of these migrants settled in the Avalon Peninsula, within 100 miles of St. Johns, the capital of Newfoundland. This migration represents the most intensive recorded transatlantic migration from one small geographic area to another. It predated by over half a century the huge waves of Irish migrations that commenced during the Great Famine years of 1845-49.

The present day spellings of some of communities are often different from older spellings on maps. Some places have also undergone formal name changes.

MODERN SPELLING / OLD SPELLING / DATE ORIGIN

Bay Bulls / Bay of Bulls / 1592 English.

Witless Bay / Witless / c.1630-40 English

Mobile / Moveable Bay / c.1630-40 English

Tors Cove / Todes Cove / 1695 English

Burnt Cove / Burn Cove / 1733 English

La Manche / same / 1836 French

Brigus South / Alera de Brigas / 1630 uncertain
.
Cape Broyle / Cape Broile / 1612 English

Calvert / Capeline Bay until 1922 English

Ferryland / Farilham / 1529 Portuguese

Aquaforte / Aqua Fuerte / 1630 Portuguese

Maps from 1519 referred to the area as R.da aguea, meaning strong or fast water. This may have referred to a local waterfall that empties into the harbour. Later R.da aguea evolved into Agoforta and eventually Aquaforte.

By the late 1700s seasonal fishing crews were visiting the area, however it was not until the early 1800s that permanent settlement occurred when English fishermen began to stay year round. Michael Brien was born here ±1810.

Interesting Facts about Aquaforte

• 1675 to 1715, Aquaforte supports a small seasonal fishery. Ships from Bideford and Barnstable, England visit regularly.
• 1776, local Justice of the Peace, Robert Carver, applies to England for a small tract of land and becomes the first farmer in the community.
• 1833, the first police constable in the area is appointed.
• 1836, population grows to more than 125 residents.
• 1842, there are three schools operating in the area.
• 1902, Anders Ellefsen (A Norwegian) makes an application to build a factory to process whales.
• 1920s to 1930s, local businessmen build ice houses (insulated warehouses) to store ice for sale to passing schooners.
• 1972, Aquaforte is incorporated as a community.

Fermeuse / Fermoso / 1519 Portuguese

Fermeuse harbour was not settled until the 1700s, when formerly migratory fishermen from England decide to settle. By the late 1700s and into the 1800s Irish settlement increased. Michael Joseph O'Brien was born here ±1847.

Interesting Facts about Fermeuse:

• 1677, summer population estimated ± 160 men.
• 1732, census records indicate Fermeuse has 32 English ‘masters’, 267 male servants, 1 wife, 1 female servant, 40 children and 35 male Irish fishing servants.
• 1732, a Justice of the Peace and police constable are appointed to the community.
• 1845, first Roman Catholic Church opens.
• 1874, cod liver oil factory and lobster processing factory employ many residents.
• 1905, Michael Shallow (born in Fermeuse 1874) becomes British Empire Heavyweight Boxing Champion.
• 1967, Fermeuse is incorporated.
• 1990, the Fermeuse Marine Centre is constructed by the Federal Government for the repair and maintenance of fishing vessels

Renews / Rougnouse / 1536 French from Portuguese

This is the area of our Briens. Maps dated from the early 1500s refer to this area as R.fermoso and Rio Fremoze. There is no agreement on the meaning of the word, some believe that it is a derivative of Fermosa which means beauty.

Interesting Facts about Renews:

* 1620, The Mayflower stopped here for fresh water as it travelled to "Plymouth Rock", Massachusetts.

* 1927, In Renews a replica of Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto stands. The grotto was built on a mass rock, the only one of its kind in North America. The "mass rock" was the place where local residents celebrated mass secretly at night when Roman Catholicism was suppressed in Newfoundland. Emma Conway was born here in 1859. She and her husband, Michael Joseph Brien raised their family here and later immigrated to the USA in 1907.

Port Kerwin / formerly Admiral's Cove English

Kingman's Cove / same English

Cappahayden / formerly Broad Cove uncertain

Cape Race / Cape Raso / 1504-6 Portuguese

Trepassey / Trepasses / 1555 French